Avinash Iyer writes essays on the residues of empire — in the UK's political culture, in the diaspora's civic life, in the long argument about what India inherited and what it refused. His columns move between Delhi and London without losing footing in either.
Recent work
Jaipur: Where Rajput Grandeur Lives in Every Pink Stone
Jaipur, Rajasthan's storied Pink City, is far more than a heritage postcard — it is a living, breathing metropolis where Mughal-era planning principles, Rajput royal ambition, and vibrant street culture coexist without contradiction. Founded in 1727 by Maharaja Jai Singh II and built on the grid of Vastu Shastra, it remains one of the finest examples of deliberate urban design in Indian history. From the saffron-hued kachori stalls of the old bazaars to the sandstone ramparts of Amber Fort, Jaipur offers travellers a rare encounter with a civilisation that never stopped being alive.